Historic London pubs
For some of us, one of the joys of London is visiting the city's many historic and characterful pubs. Here are just a few of my favourites.
The Angel
101 Bermondsey Wall East, London SE16 4NB
There is a superb view along the Thames to Tower Bridge from the terrace of the Angel at Bermondsey. The current building dates from the 1850s, but it is first recorded as ‘The Angell near Redriff Stairs’, probably named after Lord of the Manor William Angell. It still stands on piles sunk into the river in the 17th century when the previous building was constructed. Captain Cook drank here when planning his voyage to Australia and New Zealand, and Samuel Pepys and his wife visited the Angel when buying cherries at the adjacent garden. Across the street are the remains of Edward III’s 14th century manor house.
The Black Friar
174 Queen Victoria St, Greater, London EC4V 4EG
For hundreds of years, throughout the medieval period, the Dominican friary in the south-west corner of the City was one of London’s most important religious houses, home to the ‘black friars’, named because of the black habits they wore. The friary, along with all monasteries, was dissolved by Henry VIII in the 1530s. Three hundred and fifty years later the Black Friar pub was built on a small part of the site of the friary. In the early 20th century it was remodelled with one of the most unique and interesting interiors of any London pub. You can learn more in my video youtube.com/watch?v=xQXSWuZnJ-0
The Eight Bells
89 Fulham High Street, Fulham SW6 3JS
Follow Fulham High Street in a southerly direction and the busy road veers slightly to the right as it becomes Putney Bridge Approach. But the High Street continues straight on as a minor side road until coming to a dead end in a car park. Until the 1880s the High Street continued up to the predecessor of Putney Bridge, the ancient wooden Fulham Bridge. At the northern end of the bridge stood the Eight Bells pub. Its first licence was granted in 1629, making it the oldest tavern in Fulham, and it has had its current name since the 1750s. In the 1880s the nearby Fulham Football Club used the pub as their changing room. The Eight Bells now has the feel of a cozy local. To my knowledge, it is the only pub in London (at the time of writing) that serves poutine, a dish from Quebec, although the pub has no obvious Canadian connection.
The George Inn
75 Borough High St, London SE1 1NH
In the days before the introduction of railways the best way to travel around the country was by stage-coach. Coaching inns developed around the periphery of the City on the major roads that led out in each direction. They were typically constructed around a courtyard within which passengers could board or disembark. The building that surrounded the courtyard was usually galleried, containing rooms in much the same way as a modern hotel. The road that led to all points south was Borough High Street and until the 19th century the street was lined with coaching inns. The last survivor of the galleried coaching inns in London is the George Inn. You can learn more in my video youtube.com/watch?v=xQXSWuZnJ-0
The Island Queen
87 Noel Rd, Greater, London N1 8HD
Tucked away in a residential Islington side street, about 10 minutes walk from Angel tube station, this is a gem of a local pub, with a fine gin palace-style interior. The building dates from the 1850s. It was altered in the latter years of that century, with much remaining from that time, including its central island bar, cast-iron columns, and open fireplace. The mirrors are from around 1900. Named after a 19th century Mississippi steamboat, it is the only pub in Britain to bear the name. On my first visits to the Island Queen in the 1980s there were large models from Alice in Wonderland suspended from the ground-floor ceiling but, sadly, they have long gone.
The Princess of Prussia
15 Prescot St, London E1 8AZ
Closed on Sundays
The splendid Princess of Prussia in Prescot Street, near Whitechapel, has been a pub since around 1859, when a large number of its customers were visitors to the adjacent law court. It was named after Princess Victoria, eldest child of Queen Victoria, who had recently married the Prince of Prussia. It was acquired by Truman’s brewery, who in 1913 had it rebuilt, but is now owned by the Kent brewer Shepherd Neame.
The Prospect of Whitby
57 Wapping Wall, London E1W 3SH
A sign outside the Prospect of Whitby lists all the English monarchs, from Henry VIII to Charles III, since it was first established as the Pelican. During that time, the pub has witnessed many things on its riverside setting, including the hanging of pirates on the foreshore, and sailing ships departing for voyages of discovery to far-off lands. There is reputed to have been various visitors of historical importance, including Samuel Pepys, ‘Hanging’ Judge Jeffries, William Hogarth, Charles Dickens, J.M.W. Turner and James Whistler. It is thought that the current name drives from a collier ship from Whitby named The Prospect that once moored nearby. The Prospect of Whitby was rebuilt in the 18th and 19th centuries, although it is believed that the stone floor survives from an earlier period.
The Ship and Shovell
2 Craven Passage, London WC2N 5NF
The charming Ship and Shovell is unusual in being a pub of two halves, one bar on each side of a passageway, and nestled (almost) below Charing Cross station. The name derives from Sir Cloudesley Shovell, a distinguished admiral. In 1707, as Commander of Britain’s Mediterranean Fleet, he forced the French to scuttle their fleet at Toulon. Unfortunately, he didn’t have much time to celebrate the victory. On the voyage back home his ships were blown off course and shipwrecked off the Isles of Scilly. Shovell and around 2,000 sailors perished. You can learn more in my video youtube.com/watch?v=xQXSWuZnJ-0
The Viaduct Tavern
126 Newgate St, London EC1A 7AA
Closed on Sundays
In the 1860s work was undertaken to bridge the valley of the River Fleet, resulting in the Holborn Viaduct. In 1869, its year of completion, the Viaduct Tavern opened a short distance away. Its interior is typical of the Victorian gin palaces of the time, with marble walls, large mirrors, and moulded ceiling. Of particular note is the wall adorned with three pre-Raphaelite style paintings of women representing agriculture, commerce, and industry and art. The splendid bar is original. That the tavern was once divided into separate dinking areas for different classes of clientele, is indicated by the multiple entrance doors. When it opened, the Viaduct Tavern stood next to the Giltspur Street Compter gaol, and across the road from the infamous Newgate Prison. Its cellars resemble cells and thus many believe these are part of the remains of the old Compter.
Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese
145 Fleet St, London EC4A 2BP
Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese can be found down a narrow alleyway off Fleet Street. Enter and you feel as though you have stepped back into the 18th century when it was the local tavern of the distinguished lexicographer Dr. Samuel Johnson. The current building dates from 1667, immediately after its predecessor was destroyed in the Great Fire of the previous year. Carefully navigating narrow stairs leads you down from the dark-wood lined upper bars, past various nooks, into the stone cellars that were once part of a medieval Carmelite monastery.